2016-01-22 Fri

India has a rich history of textile production which is almost 5000 years old. Developing the handloom sector of the country has been one of the primary concerns of the Indian Government since many years now. Several schemes have been introduced pertaining to skill upgradation, issue of insurance coverage for workers, improvement of marketing and exports, research and development etc.

A set of 4 stamps were issued on 10th Dec 2009 to commemorate this noble initiative. Designed by S. Samantha, these stamps feature four different traditional handloom processes - Kalamkari, Apa Tani weaves, Kanchipuram and Banaras Silk. All of them are worth 5 Rs.

The techniques and materials vary depending upon the geographical and climatic conditions.

Kalamkari:

The term means pen work and denotes the painted and printed textiles of Andhra Pradesh. They belong to two distinct schools: the Masulipatnam ones patronized by Muslim rulers influenced by Persian paintings and the Sri Kalahasti ones followed by Hindu temples who were influenced by Hindu mythology. For printing repetitive patterns at Masulipatnam, the pen was often replaced by blocks while Kalahasti continues to use the ‘kalam’ as the main tool. Over the years, this traditional textile production procedure has been a part of many rituals in Andhra Pradesh and has evolved with time.

Apa Tani Weaves:

The Apa Tani form originated from the lower Subansiri district of Arunachal Pradesh, in North East India. The women weave primarily for their own households – a tradition that is passed down from mother to daughter. Almost every family possesses one or two looms. The loom is a single heddle, reed less, loin loom, which is easy to operate and portable.

Kanchipuram Silks:

The figured and brocaded silk–woven saris of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu are renowned all over the world. Ancient southern texts date the rich silks to the 2nd century, though many attribute the origin of the craft to the migration of weavers at different periods. The saris have a distinctive style, combining simple borders and grounds in rich contrasting colours with elaborate patterns woven with rows of animals, birds, flowers and creepers or geometric patterns. The silk is compact, thick and richly textured due to the use of twisted three-ply yarn. The use of colour and the lustre of the silk give Kanchipuram Silks their identity.

Varanasi Brocades:

Varanasi, also called Banaras and Kashi, in Uttar Pradesh is famous not just for its temples, musicians etc. but also for the brocades and the versatile Varanasi draw loom. It is a complex hand loom for weaving figured textiles of great complexity and width. Designs or “naqshas” form the basis of the pattern woven. In brocade – weaving, extra weft threads of different coloured silk or zari, metallic threads, are woven into the base fabric in areas where they are to form a pattern.