2017-04-12 Wed

To understand our traditional craft of weaving silk, we visit museums assuming that this craft of age-old tradition is lost in the ripple of time. But this craft of weaving skill specifically the weaving of Banaras skill is still in fashion and in tremendous demand.

This skill from the holy city of Banaras (Varanasi) is also known as Kin-Khab which literally means ‘Cloth of Gold' or ‘Shivnagari'. This exquisite fabric is appreciated all over the world for its wraps and weft thread of different colours. Its design is woven by the threads of Gold and silver mainly for weaving saris.

The developed of this art took place near the ancient centres mainly in Banaras, Gujarat, Delhi, Agra and Murshidabad. Later the design of this skill weaving was influenced by the designs of Persia, Turkey, etc.

The rich flourishing silk finds its roots in the holy text of Rig-Veda where a cloth ‘Hiranya' is mention which is the earliest equivalent to ‘Kin-Khab'. Buddhist texts also talk about the texture, beauty, and finesse of this skill which was the garment of the royal houses. The tempera paintings of Ajanta are believed to depict the floral designs and geometrical patterns with a close affinity of Banaras silk style.

Later on, Mughal King Akbar became the patron on this skilled craftsmanship. His love of art made him appreciate this skill of weaving; this resulted into increase in the export of this silk. Later on, it was also favoured by his son Emperor Jahangir and his wife Nur Jahan. It is a debate among art historians that the garments wore by the Emperor Jahangir in his Zodiac coinage specifically in the Leo type coin can be brocades from Banaras.

English found this beautiful and expensive silk for occasional use only. But today this silk is not only used in saris but also in many other garments.

To promote our tradition art India post has issued a commemorative stamp in 2009.

Here’s an interesting fact: Muhammad Bin Tughlaq kept 500 weavers at Delhi to make gold silk brocades worn by his wives. Emperor Akbar even ordered to make curtain and carpets of this silk.

To know about Indian traditional craft click here.